The Cambria Duster by Friday Pattern Co.: Loungewear or Outerwear?

By Martha West
I’ve been seeing so many posts about people making robes during the pandemic.  I’m not a robe person but I started looking at robe-like patterns after seeing so much on social media.  I decided to make the Cambria Duster by Friday Pattern Co. because I could easily see it as a luscious robe OR a lightweight jacket. 

I have been operating under a number of self-induced sewing rules during the pandemic.  The most successful and satisfying has been one to use my stash and make do with what I already have.  So, I went up to the closet that has been storing a beautiful light blue wool crepe for 15 years.  I bought it to make a suit for work just before my department went business casual.  It has waited a long time for the right project and I was so certain that I had 5 yards of it that I didn’t even check before ordering the pattern.  Err, it turned out to be 2.5 yards.  In spite of 90 minutes of trying, I could not make it work for Cambria.  So, I located two different double knit fabrics that seemed to work together and decided to go for a slightly Boho look.  Sew News Magazine’s Aug/Sept 2020 issue has a gorgeous boho version of the Suki Robe by Helen’s Closet (a lovely and very popular pattern) so I thought it might work for my version.The sewing was challenging due to the very different stretch percentages of my gray cotton double-knit and the blue print polyester/nylon double-knit.  Particularly since the blue print fabric had 60% stretch on the straight grain…but only 40% on the cross grain.  Huh?  I wish I would have noticed that before cutting out!  I would have cut out on the cross grain instead.I used my walking foot to help tame the beast, particularly the front collar/facing where the two different fabrics were sewn together. It helped quite a bit but, I was a little concerned that it would still turn out too wonky to be wearable.  In the end, I was very surprised by how much I like the robe/duster and I have worn it as both loungewear and outerwear since the temperatures have become more fall-like.Overall, the robe was surprisingly easy to sew and quick!  I made some modifications:

• Shortened the robe by 3” (I’m 5’6”)

• Understitched the front of the robe as far as it was possible.  Definitely necessary due to my two different fabrics.

• Put a huge 2.5” hem in the sleeves because they were too long on me but I like the look of the large cuff folded back.

• I didn’t add extra width across the back as a broad back adjustment and I didn’t need it in my stretchy fabric, but I recommend taking care if you aren’t using a stretchy fabric.  I think the back is quite narrow…and I’ve never had to do a broad back adjustment on any pattern.

• Widened the sleeves by ¾”.  They are very narrow for a winter garment that you might put over a sweater.  If this were a lightweight summer duster, they’re probably fine but I was aiming for something cozy.We’re considering putting a robe class together at The Sewing Hive. 
  Please let us know if that’s something you are interested in by sending an email.

Pop Quiz !!!!!

What do you see?

something went wrong….or I did incorrectly.

Did you guess that I did not pre-shrink the interfacing in the yoke? You are correct!! I didn’t pre-shrink and you can see the results, puckering every time I wash my favorite jumper. It’s robin egg blue linen with pink batiste lining and a fun facing, all from SewTo Speak several years ago. But I was in a hurry, and did not pre-shrink the interfacing, although I did prewash all the other fabrics. Tough lesson, but every time I wear the jumper, I am reminded of this simple step.

Many years ago I picked up one of John’s suit from a dry cleaner and the lapels were puckered. I was upset, especially since at 6’5’, nice suits are difficult to find for him. The dry cleaner patiently explained that they were not at fault, that the manufacturer had not pre-shrink the interfacing. Not sure I really believed that, but they had always done a good job for us, until I saw what happened to my jumper.

I now pre shrink every fabric before it goes in my stash cupboard, with a note on it how it was done, same with interfacing. To pre-shrink, simply fill a bowl with cool/warm water, lay the interfacing in the water for a few minutes, and hang to dry. Do not put in the dryer, do not wring, just hang. It takes so little time, I do even when the tear sheets say it is pre-shrunk. No chances here. It will dry quickly and you have one prep step done.

Prepped and ready when you are!

Which Class???? Bust Adjusting Vs Pattern Fitting vs Master Pattern Workshop. ??

Last week I heard from a customer that they were having trouble deciding which of three classes she should register for. Knowing that if one person is having problems, so are others, I decided time to tackle the questions.

Bust Adjustments Vs Pattern Fitting Vs Master Pattern Workshop????

Bust Adjustment: Since most patterns are scaled on a B cup, and unless you are a B Cup, or have a pattern that specifically states it has cup size variations, you may need to adjust the pattern to your cup size. Add to that the cup size in RTW is different than in patterns and maybe that’s why your garments are not fitting well. Also, how the dart is placed on your body will affect the fit: too high, too low….. If the rest of the pattern sizing just involves altering between sizes that you are confident doing, then this is a good class for you. We’ll show you how to do this adjustment, so that you can do it confidently with any pattern you select in the future.

Pattern Fitting: This is a good session if you have one pattern that you would like tissue fitted before making a test garment. We discuss designer ease from the finished garment measurements on the pattern, and alter the pattern as needed. This may include a bust adjustment, but we are doing more than explaining. We’ll work on all aspects of fitting: lengthen or shortening, sleeve and cuff length, altering between sizes and adjusting to personal preferences. If you bring fabrics you are considering we can advise on how each one will work with the pattern. We can cover a lot in 2 hours. When you leave you will be ready to sew a wearable test: Paula’s term for a muslin that you wear to really live with a garment and tease out the details of what you like and dislike before cutting into your beloved stash fabric.

Master Pattern Workshop: This is a good workshop for those that are interested in being able to take details from RTW and incorporate them into a basic pattern. This is a fast paced workshop. We alter, cut out and machine baste a muslin from a fitting pattern. Then we drape in the details for a custom fitting bodice front and back, and skirt with only wearable ease.( meaning you can move in it.) Once all are happy, then the muslin is marked, disassembled, and then drawn on to heavy paper. We encourage you to bring in a pattern you are interested in making and we can show you how to lay your block on the pattern to compare your fit to the pattern fit. If you need help in the future adding details from RTW onto your basic pattern, then you can just come to us on an hourly basis. We do have a class for those that have taken any block, toile, master pattern class in which you create a classic shift dress with facing from your block. Kind of gets your hands dirty…..

Any other questions….ask, ask, ask……..then sew, sew, sew…..studio@sewinghive.com

Best,
Gail

What Do I Wear to the Office?

Bow ties for work days

40 years ago, I wore a uniform: blue suit, white shirt, heels, and little bow ties (see photo). Every day.

Last week I attended a video meeting in a great looking shirt, a skort, and flip-flops…..much more comfortable! No one was the wiser, until I got up to get a glass of water (the meeting was 4 hours long) and realized on the way back to my desk that everyone could see my skort and flip-flops. Good for a laugh.

But that got me thinking: Is there a new business attire model? Please not a T-Shirt! What is casual business attire now? Gym clothes.

For me, the answer is a Great Shirt! Doesn’t matter the color, although taking the time to look at your virtual office background could be a key to the color.

How do you get a great shirt? You learn to sew one, then two, or three. (It took me awhile to mentioning a class, but I did it.) After making quite a few different shirt patterns, my favorite classic is Vogue #8772. It’s available in sizes 6-22, instructions are well done and the fit is really nice. Many variations are included. You just can not go wrong with this pattern. It does have bust and waist darts, so getting fitted correctly is a must, and that is included in the class.

Making a shirt is also a way to elevate your skill set: creating a collar with a stand with outstanding points, cuffs, 6 darts, front plackets with buttonholes, a set in sleeve. Topstitching! (You most likely have a machine foot that will make topstitching easy and professional looking).

If you need a face to face meeting, pop on a ponte knit skirt ( 3” contour waistband, straight skirt) and a nice pair of shoes….when it gets colder, pants and boots.

When clients say they want to sew better garments and they have the basics: I say, learn to make a shirt, https://www.sewinghive.com/all-classes/buttoned-up-shirt-skill-builder , then learn to fit and sew a great fitting pair of pants (class by Martha West)https://www.sewinghive.com/all-classes/pants-fitting-and-sewing-techniques and you really will have the workplace basics covered. Oh, and if you would like to make the skirt, email me and we will set you up for that also…….best,

Gail

studio@sewinghive.com

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Can it really be time to think of the Holidays? We think so!

Here’s why: One reason is shopping is just not a fun experience right now.  This season might be the biggest season for homemade gifts in a very long time, maybe since I was a kid, which is a very long time. :)

We are all seeing the benefit in slowing down and spending time making.  Maybe it just started with dinner in, instead of dinner out.  

In a few weeks we will start sending out classes, and ideas for gifts that you can make instead of just purchasing already made.  Really, nothing beats a "You made this?".
Most of these ideas will be time spent with us getting started, and then you can finish at home.  Unless it is a surprise...then we will help you keep it a secret, even if that means storing it at our shop until you finish, and it gets wrapped.

But I do want to mention a new class, Linda Leviton's Machine Felting.  This is NOT getting wool wet to shrinking it to make 70's felted jackets!  This is using very fast machines that will allow you to get a taste of how wonderful embellishing fabric can be. Take a minute to check out the Youtube video on our home page to see one at work.  
Linda is bringing these machines to class for each student to use.  Below are two examples of sweater embellishments that she created in a very short time.  The real value in working with Linda is her creativity.  Sometimes we get stuck just starting. I do.  I want it to be right, so I am stalled by all the possibilities.   Linda can provide guidance on what will work to create the perfect accents.  She has that gift....it's her Super Power.

Some samples Linda whipped up as experiments.......

A wool sweater that Linda added some plaid wool we had in the shop, some felt squares and felted the two top pieces onto the sweater, hanging it from ordinary to extraordinary!

A cashmere sweater that Linda found in a consignment shop that had a hole in it.  She felted over the holes and now has a one of a kind beautiful sweater.  You can not see a where one fabric starts and the other stops.  They are beautifully blended.  These pieces are at the Studio for you to stop in an see.

We are now open Thursdays from 10-4pm, with a mask please.

Best, 
Gail 

Can't go get a haircut? Let's make a scrunchy!

Supplies:
20” wide by 4” high medium-weight fabric. You can use just about any kind, like t-shirt, quilting, velour, silk, etc.
9” long x 1/8” wide elastic
matching all-purpose thread
scissors
sewing machine
ruler
hand-sewing needle
bodkin or a large safety pin

Fold fabric in half with the fabric fronts facing, length-wise and sew a 1/4” wide seam allowance along the long raw edges.

Flip right-side-out.

Using a safety pin or bodkin, attach the tool to the end of the elastic and pull into the tube. Make sure you keep both elastic ends in sight.

Tie the ends of the elastic together, leaving a 1/2” tail, like you would for hand sewing.

Fold one end toward itself so raw edges are tucked inside. Tuck the remaining end into the folded end about 1/2”.

Hand sew the ends together with small stitches. Back stitch at the end and you are done!