Say "Oui" To French Seams!

Bonjour, fellow sewing enthusiasts! Let’s learn how to sew French seams – those magical stitches that turn ordinary seams into masterpieces and bid farewell to frayed edges. So grab your spools, don your imaginary beret, and let’s journey together into sewing finesse!

Prepare Your Fabric:
You’ll want to do this on thinner fabrics, such as a lawn, voile, gauze or similar weight. This one is a lovely fabric by Art Gallery Place the fabric's wrong sides together. This is the opposite of traditional sewing, where you sew with the right sides together.

The backs of the fabrics are facing each other.

Sew the First Seam:
Pin the seam you want to sew with a French seam, ensuring the fabric is aligned.
Sew a straight seam with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. This is smaller than your final seam allowance.

Trim and Press:
Trim the seam allowance to about 1/8 inch (3mm) to remove excess bulk.
Press the seam open with an iron.

Fold and Press:
Fold the fabric along the seam line so the right sides face each other.
Press along the folded line to create a neat crease.

Sew the Second Seam:
Sew another seam with a 3/8-inch seam allowance (or your desired seam allowance). This will encase the raw edges from the first seam within the fold.
The first seam you sewed will now be hidden within this second seam.

The fronts of the fabric are now facing each other.

Press and Finish:
Press the seam to one side. The raw edges are now encased, creating a clean and finished look on the right side of the fabric.
Your French seam is complete! This method prevents fraying and creates a clean and polished finish on both sides of the fabric. It's particularly useful for delicate fabrics like chiffon, silk, and lightweight cotton.

Remember that French seams work best on fabrics that aren't too thick, as they can become bulky with multiple layers. Consider other seam finishing techniques like flat-felled seams or serged finishes if you're working with heavier fabrics.

Holiday Gift Tutorial:

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Rope Bowls

Ages: 9 and up. Parents may want to supervise, due to little fingers having to be so close to the needle and presser foot in the first steps.

Supplies: 
At least 18 yards of cotton blend closeline rope can make a 4” tall with 10” diameter bowl.
I found mine at Meijer in the laundry basket supply section of the store.
All-purpose thread in any color or combination of colors
Sewing machine that does zig-zag stitches
A pencil or chopstick for starting out, so your fingers won’t get in the way
*Optional, pompoms acrylic craft paint or ½” wide strips of woven light-medium weight fabric and various thread colors. Mix it up and have fun!

Instructions:
Set your machine to the widest zig-zag setting. 
Coil one end of the rope clockwise, until it’s about the same size as a quarter. 
Sew across the diameter of the coil and use a tool to help push it along, so your fingers don’t get in the way. Raise the presser foot lever with the needle down and adjust the coil, so you can sew across in another direction. Repeat this until it feels like it’s going to stay together. 

Begin rotating the coil as you sew, making sure the needle goes through the sewn rope and the rope being coiled around. If you miss a couple of spots, you can go back after it’s done and sew over any unsewn sections. 
When the coil comes near the edge of the sewing machine, tilt it upward with a sharp angle so the sides of the bowl start to take shape. 

After you get to the end of the rope, backstitch and forward stitch about 3 times to secure the end. 

*So many options!
If you want to do some scrap-busting, wrap strips of fabric around the rope just before you sew it. Send Jamie an email to sewinghive@gmail.com and she’ll send you a video of that. 
You can also paint right on the bowl with acrylic craft paint.
Another thing you can do is tie on some tassels or pom-poms.