Pop Quiz !!!!!

What do you see?

something went wrong….or I did incorrectly.

Did you guess that I did not pre-shrink the interfacing in the yoke? You are correct!! I didn’t pre-shrink and you can see the results, puckering every time I wash my favorite jumper. It’s robin egg blue linen with pink batiste lining and a fun facing, all from SewTo Speak several years ago. But I was in a hurry, and did not pre-shrink the interfacing, although I did prewash all the other fabrics. Tough lesson, but every time I wear the jumper, I am reminded of this simple step.

Many years ago I picked up one of John’s suit from a dry cleaner and the lapels were puckered. I was upset, especially since at 6’5’, nice suits are difficult to find for him. The dry cleaner patiently explained that they were not at fault, that the manufacturer had not pre-shrink the interfacing. Not sure I really believed that, but they had always done a good job for us, until I saw what happened to my jumper.

I now pre shrink every fabric before it goes in my stash cupboard, with a note on it how it was done, same with interfacing. To pre-shrink, simply fill a bowl with cool/warm water, lay the interfacing in the water for a few minutes, and hang to dry. Do not put in the dryer, do not wring, just hang. It takes so little time, I do even when the tear sheets say it is pre-shrunk. No chances here. It will dry quickly and you have one prep step done.

Prepped and ready when you are!

Which Class???? Bust Adjusting Vs Pattern Fitting vs Master Pattern Workshop. ??

Last week I heard from a customer that they were having trouble deciding which of three classes she should register for. Knowing that if one person is having problems, so are others, I decided time to tackle the questions.

Bust Adjustments Vs Pattern Fitting Vs Master Pattern Workshop????

Bust Adjustment: Since most patterns are scaled on a B cup, and unless you are a B Cup, or have a pattern that specifically states it has cup size variations, you may need to adjust the pattern to your cup size. Add to that the cup size in RTW is different than in patterns and maybe that’s why your garments are not fitting well. Also, how the dart is placed on your body will affect the fit: too high, too low….. If the rest of the pattern sizing just involves altering between sizes that you are confident doing, then this is a good class for you. We’ll show you how to do this adjustment, so that you can do it confidently with any pattern you select in the future.

Pattern Fitting: This is a good session if you have one pattern that you would like tissue fitted before making a test garment. We discuss designer ease from the finished garment measurements on the pattern, and alter the pattern as needed. This may include a bust adjustment, but we are doing more than explaining. We’ll work on all aspects of fitting: lengthen or shortening, sleeve and cuff length, altering between sizes and adjusting to personal preferences. If you bring fabrics you are considering we can advise on how each one will work with the pattern. We can cover a lot in 2 hours. When you leave you will be ready to sew a wearable test: Paula’s term for a muslin that you wear to really live with a garment and tease out the details of what you like and dislike before cutting into your beloved stash fabric.

Master Pattern Workshop: This is a good workshop for those that are interested in being able to take details from RTW and incorporate them into a basic pattern. This is a fast paced workshop. We alter, cut out and machine baste a muslin from a fitting pattern. Then we drape in the details for a custom fitting bodice front and back, and skirt with only wearable ease.( meaning you can move in it.) Once all are happy, then the muslin is marked, disassembled, and then drawn on to heavy paper. We encourage you to bring in a pattern you are interested in making and we can show you how to lay your block on the pattern to compare your fit to the pattern fit. If you need help in the future adding details from RTW onto your basic pattern, then you can just come to us on an hourly basis. We do have a class for those that have taken any block, toile, master pattern class in which you create a classic shift dress with facing from your block. Kind of gets your hands dirty…..

Any other questions….ask, ask, ask……..then sew, sew, sew…..studio@sewinghive.com

Best,
Gail

What Do I Wear to the Office?

Bow ties for work days

40 years ago, I wore a uniform: blue suit, white shirt, heels, and little bow ties (see photo). Every day.

Last week I attended a video meeting in a great looking shirt, a skort, and flip-flops…..much more comfortable! No one was the wiser, until I got up to get a glass of water (the meeting was 4 hours long) and realized on the way back to my desk that everyone could see my skort and flip-flops. Good for a laugh.

But that got me thinking: Is there a new business attire model? Please not a T-Shirt! What is casual business attire now? Gym clothes.

For me, the answer is a Great Shirt! Doesn’t matter the color, although taking the time to look at your virtual office background could be a key to the color.

How do you get a great shirt? You learn to sew one, then two, or three. (It took me awhile to mentioning a class, but I did it.) After making quite a few different shirt patterns, my favorite classic is Vogue #8772. It’s available in sizes 6-22, instructions are well done and the fit is really nice. Many variations are included. You just can not go wrong with this pattern. It does have bust and waist darts, so getting fitted correctly is a must, and that is included in the class.

Making a shirt is also a way to elevate your skill set: creating a collar with a stand with outstanding points, cuffs, 6 darts, front plackets with buttonholes, a set in sleeve. Topstitching! (You most likely have a machine foot that will make topstitching easy and professional looking).

If you need a face to face meeting, pop on a ponte knit skirt ( 3” contour waistband, straight skirt) and a nice pair of shoes….when it gets colder, pants and boots.

When clients say they want to sew better garments and they have the basics: I say, learn to make a shirt, https://www.sewinghive.com/all-classes/buttoned-up-shirt-skill-builder , then learn to fit and sew a great fitting pair of pants (class by Martha West)https://www.sewinghive.com/all-classes/pants-fitting-and-sewing-techniques and you really will have the workplace basics covered. Oh, and if you would like to make the skirt, email me and we will set you up for that also…….best,

Gail

studio@sewinghive.com

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Can it really be time to think of the Holidays? We think so!

Here’s why: One reason is shopping is just not a fun experience right now.  This season might be the biggest season for homemade gifts in a very long time, maybe since I was a kid, which is a very long time. :)

We are all seeing the benefit in slowing down and spending time making.  Maybe it just started with dinner in, instead of dinner out.  

In a few weeks we will start sending out classes, and ideas for gifts that you can make instead of just purchasing already made.  Really, nothing beats a "You made this?".
Most of these ideas will be time spent with us getting started, and then you can finish at home.  Unless it is a surprise...then we will help you keep it a secret, even if that means storing it at our shop until you finish, and it gets wrapped.

But I do want to mention a new class, Linda Leviton's Machine Felting.  This is NOT getting wool wet to shrinking it to make 70's felted jackets!  This is using very fast machines that will allow you to get a taste of how wonderful embellishing fabric can be. Take a minute to check out the Youtube video on our home page to see one at work.  
Linda is bringing these machines to class for each student to use.  Below are two examples of sweater embellishments that she created in a very short time.  The real value in working with Linda is her creativity.  Sometimes we get stuck just starting. I do.  I want it to be right, so I am stalled by all the possibilities.   Linda can provide guidance on what will work to create the perfect accents.  She has that gift....it's her Super Power.

Some samples Linda whipped up as experiments.......

A wool sweater that Linda added some plaid wool we had in the shop, some felt squares and felted the two top pieces onto the sweater, hanging it from ordinary to extraordinary!

A cashmere sweater that Linda found in a consignment shop that had a hole in it.  She felted over the holes and now has a one of a kind beautiful sweater.  You can not see a where one fabric starts and the other stops.  They are beautifully blended.  These pieces are at the Studio for you to stop in an see.

We are now open Thursdays from 10-4pm, with a mask please.

Best, 
Gail 

Can't go get a haircut? Let's make a scrunchy!

Supplies:
20” wide by 4” high medium-weight fabric. You can use just about any kind, like t-shirt, quilting, velour, silk, etc.
9” long x 1/8” wide elastic
matching all-purpose thread
scissors
sewing machine
ruler
hand-sewing needle
bodkin or a large safety pin

Fold fabric in half with the fabric fronts facing, length-wise and sew a 1/4” wide seam allowance along the long raw edges.

Flip right-side-out.

Using a safety pin or bodkin, attach the tool to the end of the elastic and pull into the tube. Make sure you keep both elastic ends in sight.

Tie the ends of the elastic together, leaving a 1/2” tail, like you would for hand sewing.

Fold one end toward itself so raw edges are tucked inside. Tuck the remaining end into the folded end about 1/2”.

Hand sew the ends together with small stitches. Back stitch at the end and you are done!

Tips For Choosing Your First Sewing Machine

By guest blogger, Helen Spencer, Founder/Editor of Hello Sewing

When the time comes for you to finally get your very first sewing machine, you should make sure to make the right choice. That machine will be your most important sewing tool and practically your work partner so it must be reliable, capable and trustworthy.

There’s a lot of different models out there for you to choose from, which means you could have a hard time picking the ideal one for your needs. But if you know exactly what you intend on doing with it and which features will allow you to that, you’ll be able to quickly find your new machine. Here’s how you to choose your first sewing machine.

Know your budget

Before you start your sewing machine shopping adventure, you must first decide what budget you can work with. Sewing on a budget is definitely doable, if you know Ideally you would want to buy the most expensive model you can afford, but if your budget is very big, there’s no need for that. Most of the expensive models have a lot of features that beginner wouldn’t use and they would just get in the way.

On the other hand, if your budget is quite low, you must avoid making one mistake - buying a cheap machine from a store that isn’t specialized for sewing. Instead you should find your local sewing machine dealer and buy a used model from them. Used sewing machines are usually sold in very good condition so you won’t even notice that it isn’t new.

Decide what kind of projects you’ll work on

Knowing what you will use your sewing machine for will be the key that unlocks the right type of sewing machine for you according to the sewing blog Hellosewing. Depending on the type of sewing work you plan on doing, certain machines will suit you more than others. There are three main categories of sewing work, and each one requires different features from the sewing machine.

Repairing and altering

Changing the hemline, adjusting the length of sleeves or pant legs, fixing tears and repairing clothing, as well as similar altering work requires a few specific features for your machine to have. First one is the free arm. With it you can sew round, cylindrical shapes like sleeves and cuffs very easily because it helps hold them in place. Second feature you’ll be needing is the blind hem presser foot and the blind hem stitch option. If you get a machine with these three features you will be able to do repairing and altering work without any difficulties.

Home decor

If you wish to use your sewing machine to create unique curtains, bedsheets, pillows and other decorative items, you should search for a machine which has an automatic option for this. This feature will give your home decor items a very professional look. Also, if you wish to sew thicker curtains your machine will need to be able to feed multiple layers of thick fabric.

Creating garment

To sew items like shirts, skirts, dresses and other clothing pieces, your machine needs to be able to sew few important stitches. Zig zag, stretch, and straight stitch will handle any task that you may encounter. An automatic buttonholer will make button sewing much easier, and an option to change the needle position will let you work swiftly and precisely. 

Keep in mind that sewing multiple layers of tough fabrics like denim requires a powerful heavy-duty machine. It will pierce the fabric without jamming or breaking down.

Other considerations

Certain characteristics of a sewing machine can be considered trivial, but if they are important for you then definitely think of them one of the deciding factors when making your choice.

Noise

Some models produce more noise than the others, some are very quiet and some are practically silent. If you think that a noisy machine isn’t for you, make sure to check this characteristic before you buy it.

Weight

Extremely light machines are usually a bad choice because they are made of cheap plastic parts and won’t last long. On the other hand, heavier models are usually made of steel and they’re made to last.

Extras

Most machines come with some free accessories. Compare the extras you are getting with each model you are considering to make sure you get the most bang for your buck.

Do you want some non-standard options?

Bright LED lighting is important if you plan on sewing at night, as well as using very dark fabrics. Most of the entry level machines come with very poor light so either pick a machine with brighter light or make sure you have adequate lighting at your sewing space.

Speed control will help you keep the stitching speed constant regardless of the pressure you apply on the pedal.

Needle up and down stop position setting comes in handy because it helps you to keep the needle in the same spot while you turn the fabric. It is also good for quickly removing fabric from the machine.

Automatic 1 step buttonholer will turn buttonhole creating into a piece of cake. Just press a button or turn the dial and you’re done.

Did you like the article? Let me know in the comment section, I appreciate the feedback!