A Summary Of A Summery Ilford Shirt Jacket

We “summer-ized” the Ilford Shirt by Friday Pattern Company.
Martha, Michelle and I needed an easy-to-sew shirt to get through these hot summer days, so we hacked the pattern a bit.

Michelle, Jamie and Martha

Martha’s Summary

My favorite way of making and wearing the Ilford Jacket is actually as a cropped summer blouse.  I have four versions of this summer shirt and I love wearing them with a high waist, wider leg pant and also with skirts.  For this version, I made multiple changes.


I went down two sizes from my "true" size.  According to my measurements I should be in a size Medium but I made this one Extra Small.  

I cropped 3" from the length of the body.  The pattern doesn't have a shorten/lengthen line but it is a squared off shape so I simply removed 3 inches from the bottom of the front and back pattern pieces.  Don't forget to move the notches at the bottom front if you decide to do this too!

I made the sleeve 3" long using the boxy sleeve pattern.  I measured 3" from the top of the sleeve at the weird pointy bit and drew a perpendicular line across the sleeve pattern 3" down to leave me with a short sleeve.  

I also went a little crazy with the buttons just because I like the look of a bigger button on pretty much everything.

Gail’s Summary


For the Ilford pattern I opted for the longer version in a lightweight linen/cotton blend.  I used a contrasting pattern for the inside of the cuffs, and underside of the collar.  I found the pattern to have too much ease, so instead of a Medium, I used the XS sizing.  Using a tape measure with the finish measurements helped me decide what size to cut out.  I usually have some errand to run after I work out, so I use this 3/4 jacket to slip over my gym clothes.  Nice pattern, lots of variations.  I used large snaps for closures.

We love this pattern because it is so easy to make changes for any weather.

Jamie’s Summary

I was looking for a super light-weight fabric and decided on a double-gauze. The sleeves were removed and I added some binding with the same fabric at the dropped-shoulder.
It’s so comfortable and very nice on hot summer days because the cotton is so breathable!

Michelle’s Summary

I chose this adorable chambrey because I love fun pattern designs. This one has cute peacocks on it, which needed to be carefully matched up, so I took time when cutting the fabric to make it work. The length was shortened to my hip and I made the sleeves much shorter for a breezy summer look. Love it!

The Ilford Shirt Jacket is one of the patterns you’ll use to make your first top. You’ll also be making a skirt and have a personal shopper meet you at the fabric store to help you get the patterns and fabrics. This class is recommended for those who have had Stitch-Style-Create 1 or equivalent. It’s a five session course called Stitch-Style-Create II. Register today!

Why Do I Have So Many Summer Fabrics In My Stash?

Why do I have so many summer fabrics in my stash?

I started thinking about what I wanted to sew for this summer (dresses, please), and I noticed that my stash is heavy on lightweight summery fabrics. They’re beautiful. So why haven’t I made them into something? Some of these fabrics have been in my stash for five years.

Here’s what I discovered. When it’s cold out, I have no desire to whip up some gossamer thing. Even the thought of trying on something lacking in warming properties when it’s 25 degrees out is abhorrent. And I don’t sew much in the summer. My sewing room is on the west side of the house which is hot in the afternoons. And my A/C doesn’t seem to penetrate into this room. Ah hah! Mystery solved. I always have great intentions of making summer clothes, but in central Ohio, it’s either freezing or center of the sun hot. We have our traditional one week of warm spring weather before it’s blazing hot and humid for three months.

This year I made a conscious effort to sew summer things during March and April. Brilliant. I made myself three new dresses all out of the lovely but aging fabrics on my fabric shelves. I’m teaching classes using two of the patterns: The Closet Core Cielo Dress and Top and the Love Notions Laundry Day tee. I’ve made many tops and a dress out of the Cielo pattern over several years and love it. The Laundry Day tee is a new pattern, but it is fabulous! It is fitted through the bust but swishy through the hips. Who doesn’t love a T-shirt dress in the summer?

Our studio has lovely air conditioning, so you can sew on hot days in comfort. Please join me for either or both of these classes.

by Martha West

Gift Guide For Mothers' Day

You can sew plenty of heartfelt and practical gifts for Mother's Day. Here are some ideas:

Does your mom garden or love to cook?

Sew a personalized apron with her favorite colors or patterns. Check out this one from recycled jeans!

Is she into shopping?

Make her a set of bags, including a boxy tote and drawstring bags of various sizes with fun designs or appliques.

Is mom proud of her hair?

Why not make her more comfortable with a satin pillowcase to help eliminate hair tangles, breakage, and frizz? If you already sew, book an hour to make one or take Intro To Machine Sewing and bring a yard of satin fabric because that’s just what we make in that class!

Does she go for hikes in the woods or out in the sun?

You could make her a bucket hat. It will keep the sunburn away and help keep woodland bugs out of her hair.

Is she earth-friendly?

Make her pack of non-paper towels in fun-themed fabrics to brighten her day.

Does she love to have her sewing kit with her?

Create a fabric sewing kit to keep all the sewing tools for emergency repairs or do some hand sewing while visiting.



Maybe you haven’t sewn yet, and she would love to take a class with you to learn how to sew, fit a pattern, or make a summer garment. How about a Sewing Hive Gift Card for her or both of you?
Order, print, and stick it in a Mother’s Day card!

She'll appreciate the thoughtfulness behind the handmade gift.

A New Sewer’s Journey!

Meet our most determined, joyful client, Linda! She truly is one of the funniest, happiest people I have met.
Linda is finishing her FIFTH coat/jacket to be started and completed in the last 18 months. To flesh out the picture, I met Linda about two years ago when she took a pants class at a fabric store, and I was the instructor. She came with the pants already cut out, and I thought maybe a raccoon had nibbled the fabric away. (Sorry, raccoons; yes, Linda had already read this before I published it.) After a few hours, I asked if she was left-handed, which explained the tortured fabric and her tortured left hand using right-handed scissors.

One of our very first customers…

Not one to be happy just to stick her toe into the water, Linda plunged right in to learn everything she could about sewing outstanding garments. Recently retired, she had a beautiful white wool fabric, purchased many years ago while she was working, and she wanted to make a jacket. After seeing the beautiful fabric, we talked about maybe working on some linen first.

The very next project was the Kelly Anorak trench with lining.

Never one to shy away from a tough fabric if that was the correct fabric, Linda sourced a water resistant material from Seattle Fabrics, and the lining from Liberty of London. Zippers, snaps, grommets….she gamely tackled it all. She has a beautiful light weight trench she wears proudly.

The next project

…was a white wool winter coat, belted, with fake fur buttons that add flair and Linda’s distinctive style.

Linda is a shirt-and-jeans kind of laid-back girl, so Project Five was a shirt. We believe a woven shirt is a great skill builder: topstitching, buttonholes, fitted shoulders, plackets, collars, and cuffs. The results are pretty great, with rounded pearlized buttons. Along with three other ladies, Linda is finishing her French couture jacket. Up next, pants!

Here is what working with Linda has taught us…..it is a great idea to take a basic sewing course if you are a beginner, but never be afraid to dive right in and learn by just SEWING.